Boat Engine Comparison: Outboard vs Sterndrive vs Jet Drive

When Glastron said it was making a runabout available with three different power types we jumped at the chance to pit: outboard versus sterndrive versus jet drive.

Outboard, sterndrive or jet drive: These are the available power choices in today’s runabout market. Glastron recently achieved a trifecta of sorts, becoming the first boatbuilder to offer the same 18-foot bowrider with each power option, which presents us with a golden opportunity — the chance to finally mount a real head-to-head comparison of outboard, sterndrive and jet propulsion. Glastron provided an outboard-powered GTS 180, a sterndrive-powered GTS 185, and a jet-powered GTS 187 for trial on the same day at its test facility in Cadillac, Michigan. We compared performance, dimensions, features and cost to see if one power option would prove superior. We encountered the expected compromises with each powertrain, but there were a few surprises too.
Boat Basics
From the aft seat forward, each of these Glastron boats is exactly the same except for slight differences in controls and instruments. The 18-foot Glastron is a sharp-looking bowrider. It’s designed to compete in the affordable segment of the price spectrum. The fiberglass deck incorporates the bow seating and aft seat base but does not feature a full-cockpit liner. A separate floor, or cockpit sole, is bonded to the top of the fiberglass stringer grid that’s bonded to the hull. The exposed areas of the inner hull are covered with attractive “chain weave” vinyl material. Instruments are presented in deep aluminum bezels above a spider-spoke wheel; the bucket seats have flip-up cushions; and positive pin latches secure the lift-off cushions over stowage in the bench bases. These boats are typical of the breed, but well executed.
You’ll note that the length overall for each boat is slightly different. The outboard’s transom makes that boat 2 inches shorter than the sterndrive. The jet is 18 inches longer than the other two because its extended swim platform is a standard feature. The jet also carries three more gallons of fuel because it has a different tank shape to accommodate its required in-tank fuel pump.
Our test boats were rigged with the power option that is most popular on each model. The GTS 180 featured a 3.0-liter V-6 Mercury 150 FourStroke outboard. The GTS 185 had a 220 hp MerCruiser 4.3 MPIC under the hatch. The GTS 187 was powered by the 250 hp version of the 1.5-liter, three-cylinder Rotax 4TEC engine, which is supercharged, intercooled and catalyst-equipped. That’s a big spread in power, but testing would reveal that actual performance was pretty close. We conducted performance testing with crew and ballast totaling 700 pounds.

Outboard vs Sterndrive vs Jet Drive

Weight
We used Rec Boat’s tech-center scales to weigh the test boats. There’s a spread of 610 pounds between the outboard, our lightest version of the boat, and sterndrive, the heaviest version, with the jet weighing 60 pounds more than the 2,120-pound outboard-powered boat. This weight difference will affect every aspect of performance and economy.
Performance
Top speeds for the outboard and sterndrive were very close, at about 49 mph. The jet ran 43.5 mph, handicapped despite its power advantage by its lack of trim, which on the outboard and sterndrive let us raise the bow and reduce drag. It’s important to note that the running surface of the jet-powered GTS 187 is specific — Glastron did not simply drop the jet drive into the sterndrive hull and call it a day. There’s a huge weight difference between the two powertrains, and the thrust angle makes the boat handle differently. We were told the jet hull has much less deadrise forward and less lift aft.
The jet has a clear advantage in acceleration. We tested 0 to 25 mph “light” with one person on board and “heavy” with the equivalent of six 175-pound people on board. The jet simply lifts and leaves when the throttle is punched, blasting off with no bow rise. The outboard exhibits slight bow rise but is only about a second behind the jet to 25 mph. Bow rise blocked our view forward for a moment when the sterndrive accelerated, and with the heavy load the sterndrive was a slug, struggling to get on plane.
Fuel Economy
That the outboard proved most efficient is obvious — with just 150 hp it can match or exceed the performance of engines making more than 200 hp, as our performance charts show. At cruising speed the outboard manages 5.0 mpg, 25 percent better than the sterndrive and 52 percent better than the jet. We don’t have a good explanation for this beyond the fact that the sterndrive boat weighs 600 pounds more than the outboard, and the jet drive system is less efficient than the outboard’s propeller. Also, while the jet’s appendage drag is less, since no gear case is being dragged through the water, this may result in increased wetted surface of the hull, since it offers no ability to trim the boat.
Note that each of these engines has a different operating range — wide-open throttle is 5,000 rpm for the sterndrive, 6,000 rpm for the outboard and 8,000 rpm for the jet — so each also has a different cruising rpm. For this comparison, rather than select each boat’s best possible cruising speed, we picked a “pleasing” cruise speed, because in the real world you are not going to want to wobble along just on plane. At speeds below 7,000 rpm, the jet-powered Glastron felt like it was wallowing just a little. It likes to have more pressure under its hull to feel planted in the water. That happens to be about 35 mph, so we compare the other two boats at a similar speed in the water.
Sound Level
This is another easy win for the outboard. At cruising speed the outboard is 6 decibels (dbA) quieter than the sterndrive and 11 dbA quieter than the jet. The dbA scale is logarithmic, so a change of 10 dbA is a change by a factor of 10. Which means the jet is more than 10 times “louder” than the outboard. An outboard engine has many design advantages that keep sound levels low in the boat cockpit. It’s located farther away, on rubber mounts that isolate its vibration from the boat. It’s also enclosed by a tight cowl and can be fitted with an attenuator tuned to significantly reduce intake noise. Both the jet and sterndrive have to comply with U.S. Coast Guard flame arrestor regulations that essentially leave the intake unmuffled. The jet is further disadvantaged because its entire powertrain is mounted within the boat hull, so part of the noise of a jet drive is the flow of water through the pump and the sound of cavitation on the low-pressure side of the impeller. The jet also runs at much higher rpm, and this higher-frequency sound is more irritating to the human brain.
Aesthetics
Choosing a boat is not always a rational decision, and the look often trumps performance, economy and noise. There’s no question a lot of people really like the classic lines of a sterndrive runabout with a big sun pad over the engine and a full-width swim platform. An outboard motor ruins that clean profile, breaks up the platform into a pair of small shelves, and often requires a motorwell that intrudes on lounging space aft. The jet is also inboard, but its little in-line triple engine is much more compact than the V-6 sterndrive engine, and has a lower profile. This creates more styling possibilities aft, and in place of a sun pad, the Glastron GTS 187 has a pair of aft-facing seats with bottom cushions just above the level of the boarding platform. The jet powertrain is rather long, and the area below the center aft cockpit seat is devoted to service access to the front of the Rotax engine and the electric fuel pump, rather than stowage.
Operation
It took a sandbar on Lake Cadillac to remind us of a key virtue of jet power. We “polished the prop” of the sterndrive when we hit bottom. The jet, which draws just 14 inches at rest and perhaps 6 inches on plane, would have skimmed right over the bar. Research shows that owners also value the simple operation of a jet-powered boat — controls are limited to forward and reverse, and steering. There’s no trim to think about, no prop to ding up. Compared with the outboard and sterndrive, the jet is mechanically simple. However, because the jet pump has no rudder, it does not track well at no-wake speeds and, until you get the hang of it, can be much more difficult to control around a dock or when loading a trailer. The jet has very quick steering — just 270 degrees lock-to-lock on the wheel compared with 3.6 revolutions for the outboard and 4.5 for the sterndrive — which requires some reflex adjustment. The jet is willing to make buttonhook turns that would send your crew crashing across the cockpit. Let’s just say it’s very agile.
The trimability of the outboard and sterndrive enhance performance and economy, but the aluminum props on our test boats would blow out if we tried to make an assertive turn without first trimming back down, so that’s one more thing to think about at the helm. Submerged sandbars, rocks and stumps pose a potentially expensive risk to props and drives. You are less likely to suck sand or gravel into a jet pump and damage the impeller and sacrificial wear ring.
The outboard is so quiet you can have a normal conversation at cruising speed. The V-6 sterndrive engine vibrates quite a bit at low speeds and sounds relatively coarse at all speeds. The jet is obnoxiously loud, unless you’ve being riding a personal watercraft and don’t know any better.
Conclusion
On paper, the outboard power system is a clear winner. In this comparison, the Glastron GTS 180 with a Mercury 150 has the lightest weight, the best fuel economy, the quietest cockpit, and performance that matches or exceeds those of the sterndrive and jet. But the outboard loses big points for looks and the “livability” of its stern area. The jet is the least expensive, accelerates fastest, is easy to operate and has a clever lounging area, but it’s thirsty and noisier. In this comparison, we think styling is really the only reason to choose the sterndrive-powered boat. We say, “Wise up, America!” and buy the outboard.

By Chales Plueddeman  Boating Magazine online

Posted by: Bill Schrama

Need a boat loan to purchase a boat or repower your current boat visit www.boatfinance.com  

Top 10 Boat Names 2014

For the past two dozen years around this time, the Boat Owners Association of The United States (BoatUS) has released their annual list of top ten boat names, and we usually pay attention to see if any boat names jump out at us.

The 2014 BoatUS list of top ten boat names are...

1. Serenity
2. Second Wind
3. Island Girl 
4. Freedom 
5. Pura-Vida 
6. Andiamo 
7. Island Time 
8. Irish Wake 
9. Happy Hours 
10. Seas the Day

Maybe you've seen these boat names before. Heck, if they are popular enough to make the top 10 list, you've probably got one or more of these boat names in your marina. Maybe your boat name is even on the list.

Some folks use lists like these to come up with boat name ideas, while others peruse them to decide what NOT to name their boat, as they would prefer to choose something more unique. 

Let us know if your boat name is on this list, or if you've seen any of them around on the water.

List is courtesy of www.boatus.com

Additional boat name ideas can be found at the Boat Name Blog - www.boatnameblog.com
Please visit www.boatfinance.com for the money you need to go boating.

Tips on Buying a Used Boat for Water Sports

Boat Buying Guide - Part II

USED BOAT BUYING CHECKLIST

TEST DRIVE - You wouldn't buy a car without test driving it first, would you? Same holds true with a boat, even more so than a car. Boats are finicky animals. They tend to require more attention and maintenance than cars. When you test drive the boat pay close attention to the following things while underway:

Vibration
If it vibrates it could mean a variety of things like a bent propeller. A vibrating boat makes a noisy boat.Functioning Trim
If you're looking at an inboard/outboard boat check to make sure the trim works, which allows the motor to move from the down position to the angled position.
Response
Rapidly, but carefully, test the steering from one direction to another to see how long it takes the boat to respond.
Planing
Check to see how long it takes the boat to plane after take off.
Shifting
Does the boat slip smoothly into gear, or does it jump?
Reverse
Make sure the boat works in reverse. You never know how important this is until you have to dock.
Gauges and Instruments
Check the temperature, RPM, and speedometer for proper function.
Bilge
Make sure it is doing it's job. If your test ride is not long enough to tell, when you get back to the dock run some water in the engine hole with a water hose until the bilge kicks in.
It's a good idea to take along several people on the test drive. Added weight in a boat can affect it's performance and quickness.

Check to see how many hours are on a boat. You measure a car's use by miles and a boat's use by hours. If a boat has more than 500 hours you can expect to pay some money in upgrades and maintenance.

Wood and water don't mix, especially in the floor of a boat. Carefully inspect the floor for soft spots, which indicate rot. Don't be afraid to get on your hands and knees and smell for floor for mildew.

Ask for a maintenance history on the boat. Find out what major repairs have been made to the boat. If a lot of work has been done to the boat, chances are there will be lots to come, which translates into dollars. Ask if the boat is still under warranty. Also, ask who the boat owner used for repairs and make a point to talk to them.

It's a good idea to have a qualified marine mechanic thoroughly inspect the boat before purchasing it. To find a marine surveyor call either the Society of Accredited Marine Surveyors - SAMS. If you are going to do it yourself check the spark arrestors and plugs, alternator, belts, hoses, strainer, blower, shift cables, engine alignment, etc. Analyze the oil and make sure it is not cloudy or gritty Cloudy oil can mean the engine block is cracked.

Take a walk around the boat and inspect the hull and make sure it is in good condition. Feel free to tap on the hull all the way around and make sure the hull is consistently solid. Mismatched paint is a sign the boat has been in an accident. Also check for gel-coat blisters and dry rot.

Check the prop for warping, cracks, or nicks. Any of these things can throw off the performance of the boat.

How has the boat been stored while not in use? Was is stored outside and exposed to the sun and weather? Or was it kept in protected dry storage? 

Depending on how the boat was stored can affect how the upholstery has held up over the years. Check for ripped seams and color fading. Also check the boat cover if there is one. 

It's nice if the owner will sell the boat with a few extras which are probably already on the boat. In my opinion, a depth finder is crucial. You don't want the boat to run aground, much less let your skier run aground. In most states a marine radio is required by law. A stereo is a nice thing to have so you can listen to tunes. Also see if the boat owner will throw in some life jackets and an anchor. And if you are a lucky slalom skier they may throw in a speed control device. 

If a trailer comes with the boat you want to buy check the trailer thoroughly. They are not cheap to replace. 

Locate the boat in the N.A.D.A. Guide to find out the price value range for the model and year. Remember, if the boat is priced at the low end or lower than the low end it's likely the boat's had a history of problems and there is a reason the owner wants to get rid of the boat.

By: Bill Schrama

                              Get money you need to buy a used boat
                                    https://www.boatfinance.com

Need a Boat Loan?  

Boat Finance is your money line!

Finance your boat before you negotiate the purchase price!

You can be approved for up to $35,000 to buy a new or used boat, motor, equipment upgrades, anything you need for your boat and the proceeds will be deposited into your checking account in as little as 48 hours from approval.

Boat Finance offers 3 or 5 year unsecured personal loans with low interest rates starting from 6.73% APR.

It’s a simple free online application. Visit www.boatfinance.com for your money boat line for anything you need to boat.

Everyone knows how difficult it is to get a loan from a bank today and using credit cards for large purchases just isn't a smart financial move with all the gimmicks attached to a credit card.


Boat Finance LLC connects you to a new loan Marketplace of 3 or 5 year unsecured personal loans with low interest rates starting from 6.73%.

You can be approved for up to $35,000 to buy a new or used boat, pay for boating related expenses and the proceeds will be deposited into your checking account in as little as 3 days.

You can finance your boat before you negotiate your purchase price!

All loans are fixed term, fully amortizing, unsecured personal loans. Your monthly payment will be spread out evenly over the term of your loan and will always be the same amount each month. There are no penalties or fees for paying off your loan early or for making extra payments to reduce your balance. We also do not charge any application fees.

Applying for a loan will allow you to check your rate before you decide to accept our loan offer. You will be presented with an interest rate quote for your loan, as well as a full payment schedule over the 3 or 5 year loan term you select.

You may apply for a loan and check your rate without affecting your credit score. A "hard" inquiry will appear on your credit report only if you decide to finance your boat with us and accept the loan offer which we present to you.

By Bill Schrama

Finance your next boat at http://www.boatfinance.com/

Tips for buying a Used Boat

Tips for buying a Used Boat
There are numerous benefits to buying a used boat. Once obvious benefit is the model has been tried and tested by people who bought them new. This is a big factor in determining which boat models are reliable. Another reason is monetary savings. Buying pre-owned can save a significant amount of money, when compared to purchasing new. This may be the reason, “60 percent of first-time boat buyers, purchase a used boat,” as reported by the NMMA (National Marine Manufactures Association). Purchasing a used boat does have risks. You should make sure the boat was properly maintained. Simply put, if things go wrong on a boat, all passengers will likely remember the experience with great detail. For this reason, inspect a used boat carefully before purchasing. If possible, have the boat reviewed by an experienced marine mechanic. In addition, never purchase a watercraft without a test cruise with the owner. First-time boat buyers First-time boat buyers often find themselves lost at sea before they step foot on a boat. There are numerous models to choose and Coast Guard regulations affecting their use. Before you start glancing at used boats, know what the boats primary use will be. If you are looking to spending time cruising in peace, a Sailboat may be ideal. On the other hand, if you are looking for an all-around boat, Bow-Riders and Cuddy Cabins may be practical. To ensure you make the right decision, place considerable thought into boating plans. Once you have an idea, research the Coast Guard operation requirements, and the models that suite your needs. At times, when you view a used watercraft, the boat may not be in water. It is common, depending on the region, to find boats for sale at the owners’ home or the Marina. You can make a reasonable assessment without the craft being in water. Still, if a boat is, “the right one for you,” ask to take the boat for a test cruise before buying. An accurate assessment can not be achieved, unless the boat is operated in the water. Always review the boat manufacturers’ recommendations. Most importantly, consider the recommended maximum weight and number of occupants for the boat. If you plan on spending long days on the water with family, you want room to be comfortable. Also, make sure the recommended maximum weight leaves room for occupants plus carryon articles. On power boats, new or upgraded engines may offset the recommended operation weight or horsepower. The new motor may lack power to bring the boat, “on plane,” or be to strong for the Hull’s design. Also consider the added or reduced weight of the motor. Never exceed the manufactures maximum ratings, especially for a new boat owner. Appearance review of a Used Boat When assessing a boats condition, go by your first impression. If a boat looks horrible, it more than likely was not maintained properly. Remember, Salt attacks everything. If a boat was not properly cleaned, the salt caused damage to the boat. Here are ways to determine if a boat was maintained:

Lift any objects on the boat. Pick up coiled ropes, flooring materials, or articles on deck. Look for discoloration or moss. Light discoloration may be fairly common, but deep discoloration or moss, is a sign the boat was neglected. Moss will commonly be found on the Northern side of any objects and the craft.

Look at metal and wood surfaces. Do you see corrosion? Unprotected surfaces in a salty environment deteriorate rapidly. Teak (Common Wood for Boats) will become unsightly, if not oiled. Aluminum will pit, and it may be cracked or appear weakened.

Look over material used for riggings, depending on the craft. Nylon may appear dirty, frayed, or weakened. On certain water craft, sailboats in particular, riggings are important.

Analyze the Gel-Coat. The Gel-Coat should be waxed annually. This depends how often the boat was cruised. If not done sufficiently, the Gel-Coat will have a dull appearance. Rub your fingertip over the finish. If you notice chalk, you either have to live with a dull appearance or paint the boat. As some people may disagree with this statement, let me say, “I know many people that tried restoring the finish of a boat, but I have never seen anyone succeed. Even buffers and compounds failed”.

Examine the Hull’s for problem areas. This will be seen by a discoloration in the Gel-Coat. If you believe the hull was repaired, inquire about the matter. Ensure the repair was done right.

Make sure bulk heads are secure. Often bulk heads are secured with a laminate. This laminate may separate from the hull over time, leaving the bulk heads loose. If this is the case, I strongly urge you do not purchase the boat. These are areas of interest to find neglect on a used boat. Some of the areas mentioned are irrelevant to performance. They will alert you to little annoyances that need to be replaced in the future. For most boat owners, appearance of the craft is important. Spending hours on a dull and unsightly boat is not enjoyable. However, this reverts back to intentions of the boats. Mechanical review of a Used Boat Depending on the type of boat you are planning to purchase, the mechanics are one of the most important areas. Marine engines are expensive, when compared to Automobiles. In addition, with single engine boats, failures can leave you stranded. Once again, I suggest taking the boat for a test run, and have the motor reviewed by an experienced marine mechanic. For your initial inspection, here are some factors to examine:

Is the engine clean? A dirty engine is a good sign of neglect. As a boat owner, I routinely clean my engine after each use. In addition, I give extra care to the engine after it is run in salt water. Most engines produce an oily film when run. This film will cause salt to stick and induce pitting and corrosion to important parts.

Are there heavy deposits of grime near gaskets or seals? This will indicate both neglect and possibly a significant leak. Additionally, they are a good indicator that the engine was exposed to salt for a long period of time.

If the engine is rusted, there may be problems with the cooling system. Salt water that passes through the engine may be leaking.

Freeze plugs should be made from brass, not steel. If steel freeze plugs are on the engine block, they should be replaced.

If applicable, pull the dip-stick and look at the oil. If the boat has a diesel engine, the oil will be black. Oil with a foamy film may indicate cracks or neglected seals. Two-stroke, oil injected engines have additional components that properly lubricate the engine. Ask if the system has been checked or if any parts been replaced. Consult with the documentation to review the maintenance schedule.

Check the batteries. This should be done whenever you take a boat for a cruise. But for review purposes, if the water is low, you will need to replace the batteries.

Check any steering cables by giving a little tug. If loose, they need attention.

Make sure the bilge pump works. The bilge pump removes water from the Hull. This is an important component.

In addition to the bilge pump, some boats have bilge blowers. Generally bilge blowers are on Gasoline powered boats, but may be found on Diesel powered boat as well. The U.S. Coast Guard requires, “The use of a mechanical ventilation system for all non-open type boats built after July 31, 1980 which run on gasoline”. Always refer to the manufactures suggestion for the bilge blower, especially on Gasoline powered boats.
Happy boat buying!