Don't Go Off "Half-Cocked"!


When is the last time you exercised the seacocks on your boat? If it's been a while, you should consider doing it before you take that next cruise. Why? Because a seacock is worthless unless it works when you need it.

 The first thing to do is to make sure the valve looks like it is in good condition; and not suffering from any electrolysis. Badly rusted or corroded seacocks can suddenly break off or start leaking.

Another excellent idea is to tie a wooden plug of the proper size to the seacock handle so that it's immediately available as a last resort in case you do experience a seacock failure.

         
Seacocks come in a wide variety of sizes depending on the usage. The most common are bronze fittings, but there are also stainless steel and nylon fittings. Each probably have their advantages but bronze is tried and true and it seems like the best alternative.

Make sure you don't connect any dissimilar metals, because the electrolysis it causes is deadly.

When you are dealing with as important an area as holes in the bottom of your boat, it's a also good idea to use double hose clamps and check the fittings on a regular basis.

To keep seacocks functioning reliably, they need to be operated every once in a while, and lubricated at least once a year. Cone and plug type seacocks need to be disassembled to be properly serviced, but ball-valve seacocks are easily maintained by spreading a dollop of waterproof grease on both sides of the closed ball.

By Bill Schrama
www.BoatFinance.com

Small Boats & Power Boats

Small Boats are quite economical, maintenance free, fewer accessories can be added and easy to transport and they can be easily constructed with few weekends. They can be built very easily if you have some basic woodworking skills. Small boats work perfectly alright with novice boat manufacturers and it allows you to get the feet wet in process of producing the boat without undergoing all the risk and frustration. There are lots of producers in the market, who have built ample of boats till today and still love to produce them. Some of the most common materials used for building these boats are wood which is suitable for woodworking builders. The boat building techniques is a stitch and glue method which is considered as one of the easiest methods to implement.

You can easily find small boats for sale and diving. There is great amount of satisfaction and enjoyment in owning one of these beautiful boats. Materials like timber will be an excellent choice for beginners and tools required to build these boats are cutters, measuring tools, sanders, hammers and files. You can imagine the multiplication of satisfaction and enjoyment, those who are building one of these boats. Once these boats are produced there are several different ways to enjoy them such as packing the lunch and cruising up the river, going on a fishing trip with friends and family on the ocean and scuba diving which is one of the popular past times.

Boating is quite wonderful with power boats and most of them are in common with sail boats; they are equipped with engines and have similar maintenance. The major difference between sailboats and power boats is that sailboats don’t have to depend on engines for travel. Those who are looking for power boats for sale; the best place to look for them is over the internet with online dealers as they have lots of dealership networks. The power boats come with ample of space and provide you with different areas and levels to hang-out. In the aft cockpit area there are deck chairs and BBQ, or fighting chairs. There are some other amenities which include entertainment center it wet-bar, lounge on foredeck and flybridge for relaxing.

Once you head inside the sliding glass doors of power boats you will find all entertainment features and amenities like home such as living room with chairs and couch carpeted with some counters and coffee table, big windows with curtains for ample of lights, television in spacious area, closet, comfortable stateroom, drawers, vanity, television and entertainment center. There are lots of other features such as personal preference to heat and air-conditioning, trawlers, big cruisers and houseboats.

by DelfinAshley of BoatPointPark.com March 2011

www.boatfinance.com

Tips on Buying a Boat Suitable for Boat-Towed Water Sports

Boat Buying Guide - Part I - Avoid disappointment and do your homework.

Once you fall in love with power boating there's no turning back. It's in your blood forever. Shopping for a new boat can be challenging. So many decisions to be made and so many things to consider. It's often a bigger decision than buying a car, which is essentially a means of transportation to get you from point A to point B. A boat is usually a multipurpose investment that can be used for waterskiing, wakeboarding, barefooting, tubing, jumping, fishing, riding to your favorite hangout, weekend getaways, and more. And each of these events sometime require different qualities in a boat to get the best performance.
Before you take the boat buying plunge let me clue you in on two of the most widely spoken quotes in the boating world. "The happiest day of a boat owner's life is the day they buy the boat and the day they sell the boat" and "Boats are nothing more than holes in the water, into which you throw money."Sounds so gloomy, doesn't it? It doesn't have to be. That's why it is so crucial for you to do your homework prior to purchasing a boat. Most people who are about to buy a boat have visions of nonstop fun on the water, but the reality is boats can be lots of work and require extreme care and regular maintenance in order for that fun on the water to be long lasting.If you're still up to the challenge and responsibility of being a boat owner, use following checklist to go by when purchasing a boat.

Once you fall in love with power boating there's no turning back. It's in your blood forever. Shopping for a new boat can be challenging. So many decisions to be made and so many things to consider. It's often a bigger decision than buying a car, which is essentially a means of transportation to get you from point A to point B. A boat is usually a multipurpose investment that can be used for waterskiing, wakeboarding, barefooting, tubing, jumping, fishing, riding to your favorite hangout, weekend getaways, and more. And each of these events sometime require different qualities in a boat to get the best performance.

Before you take the boat buying plunge let me clue you in on two of the most widely spoken quotes in the boating world. "The happiest day of a boat owner's life is the day they buy the boat and the day they sell the boat" and "Boats are nothing more than holes in the water, into which you throw money."Sounds so gloomy, doesn't it? It doesn't have to be. That's why it is so crucial for you to do your homework prior to purchasing a boat. Most people who are about to buy a boat have visions of nonstop fun on the water, but the reality is boats can be lots of work and require extreme care and regular maintenance in order for that fun on the water to be long lasting.If you're still up to the challenge and responsibility of being a boat owner, use following checklist to go by when purchasing a boat. BOAT BUYING CHECKLIST - PURPOSE OF THE BOAT
Decide what your main purpose(s) for the boat will be. Do you want it strictly for tournament waterskiing or strictly for recreational wakeboarding? Or do you have kids that like to do a little bit of everything behind the boat? Will it mainly be a fishing boat that you'll occasionally want to water-ski behind? These factors will determine your engine type (inboard, inboard/outboard, or outboard). Boats.com explains some tips in its article, "Choose the right type of boat for your needs."

BODY OF WATER YOU'LL BE USIN

Larger, more wide open bodies of water require bigger boats, or those with V-drives or inboard/outboard engines. Larger boats handle rough water better than smaller boats. Direct drive boats are good for smaller lakes that generally have smooth water. Serious slalom skiers usually prefer direct drives and serious wakeboarders prefer V-drives. If your body of water is large and often chops up a bow-rider may not be the best choice. You don't want to run the risk of water coming in over an open bow.

COSTS

How much can you afford? Saving money on a purchase up front can cost you in the long run. Be sure to buy quality. Remember to take into consideration the following costs beyond the actual price of the boat and your monthly payments: insurance, boat and trailer registration fees, taxes, fuel, docking/mooring fees, storage, and equipment such as lifevests, fire extinguishers, flares, marine radio, anchor, dock lines, and a trailer if needed. When the boat is not in use you'll want to give it proper storage. Boats.com explains storage options in its article, "Learn the best way to store your boat."

Don't over look maintenance and repair costs to the boat. This can be the most discouraging factor to a boat owner. On average these annual costs averages around $50 per foot (boat length), however they can be significantly higher, depending on if you do the work yourself, or you let a marina do the work for you. This is not an area in which you want to skimp. Good maintenance habits can add years to your boat and save you many pounding headaches.

Also consider these optional items, depending on your water sports preferences: water skis, wakeboards, wet suits, towables (tubes), tow ropes and gloves, weight system for wakeboarding, pylon, boom, tower, etc.

WARRANTIES
Extremely important. No matter how new your boat is, warranties can vary tremendously. This is an area in which you do lots of comparison shopping. If purchasing a new boat be sure to go with a boat manufacturer that stands firmly behind their product and is going to rise to the occasion when things go wrong. Boatbuying.com outlines things to consider when dealing with warranties.

NMMA CERTIFIED
Make sure the boat is certified by the National Marine Manufacturers Association. The NMMA standards exceed the basic regulations set by the U.S. Coast Guard.

DEALER REPUTATION
Extremely important. This could make or break your boating experience. Make sure their service department is reputable and have quick turn around on repairs. To find a dealership in your area see the Dealerships / Sales links list.

WORD OF MOUTH
Find other people who own or have previously owned the brand or model of the boat you are considering purchasing. They can shed light on areas you may have never considered. Other boat owners will tell you the truth.

BOATING SAFETY
Take a safe boating course BEFORE you hit the water. The Water and Boating Safety Resources links page is an excellent source of boating courses and has great links to start instilling boat and water safety in your mind. Make sure that everyone who will be operating or just riding in the boat takes a safety course as well. Don't over look knowing the proper way to tow a skier and how to retrieve a downed skier safely. Also see Drivers Corner, Boating Tips, and the article, "How Fast Should You Go?" which explains boat speeds for different boat towed sports.

PROPELLER TYPE
Three or four blade? Four blades are more expensive, however they have a quicker hole shot and has a smoother spin. Three blades allow a little more top end speed. Prop manufacturers.

ATTEND A BOAT SHOW
Boat shows are a great place to start your boat shopping. For starters, there will be lots of manufacturers under the same roof, saving you travel time to multiple dealerships. Dealers often offer boat show discounts. Popular times of the year for boat shows are in the beginning of the year and the fall. To find a boat show in your area see the Boat Shows links list.

TIME OF YEAR TO BUY A BOAT
Buying at the beginning of the year will allow you to have your pick of the litter. You'll get more choices with colors, features, and special orders. Buy in the spring when everyone is getting boat fever and expect to pay more for your boat. Larger demand, larger price tag. Buy in the fall or later and you'll get lower prices when dealers are looking to unload boats before the new models hit the showroom.

Part 2 in a future post soon!
Don Schrama

Finance your next boat at http://www.boatfinance.com/

Actual-Facts Boating Terms

July 22, 2007 - Kathryn Ali

ABAFT - In the direction of the stern, or the rear of the boat
ABEAM - On a line that forms a right angle to the ship's keel
ABOARD - On board (of a ship or a boat)
ABOVE DECK - On the boat's deck
ABREAST - By the side of, next to or side by side
ADRIFT - Floating at random, not on the towline.
AFT - Near or in the direction of the stern of the boat
AGROUND - When the bottom of the boat touches or lodges on the ground. 
AHEAD - In front of; to go in advance
AIDS TO NAVIGATION - Road signs used on the waterway, they help indicate the safety level of water
ALOFT - Above or on top of the boat's deck 
AMIDSHIPS - In the middle or center of the boat
ANCHORAGE - Where a ship anchors or a suitable place to anchor
ASTERN - Towards the back of the boat
AWEIGH - When the anchor is raised and off bottom of body of water
BATTEN DOWN - To secure or strengthen the hatches and objects on the deck and hull of a boat
BEAM - The boat's width
BEARING - The direction of an object as determined by a compass
BELOW - Down below, beneath, or under the deck
BILGE - The broadest width of the bottom of the boat
BOAT - A small open vessel or watercraft. 
BOAT HOOK - A pole that has a metal point and hooks that is used to maneuver logs, or retrieve objects that have fallen overboard
BOW - A boat's front section
BOW LINE - A rope that is used to tie the boat to a dock; it has a loop spliced at one end
BOWKNOT - A special knot that is used to create a temporary loop; there are several variations for forming a bowline
BRIDGE -Where the ship is steered or controlled.
BULKHEAD - A partition that is used to separate compartments on a boat
BUOY - A floating device used for marking locations or other hazards in the water
BURDENED VESSEL - Also referred to as Give Way; the vessel that must yield to another vessel
CABIN - The compartment used for crew members or passengers
CAPSIZE - When a boat upsets or overturns
CAST OFF - To untie or let go.
CHART - A marine map
CHINE - The line where the sides and bottom of a flat or v-bottomed boat intersect
CHOCK - Fittings used to pass ropes or mooring lines 
CLEAT - Fittings used to hold ropes or lines securely
CLOVE HITCH - A temporary knot used for securing a rope or line to a piling or spar
COURSE - The direction a boat is steered.
CUDDY - A small cabin on a boat
CURRENT - The course in which the water flows
DEAD AHEAD - Straight ahead
DEAD ASTERN - The position behind the boat
DECK - Floor like coverings of the compartments of a ship
DINGHY - A small rowboat or open boat
DOCK - A pier or wharf 
DRAFT - Depth of water necessary to cause the boat to float
FENDER - A cushioning device that is used to prevent the sides of a boat from damage
FLARE - Where the boat's sides spread outward, near the bow of the boat
FLUKE - Where the anchor fastens to the ground
FOLLOWING SEA - A sea swell
FORE-AND-AFT - The length of the boat from the bow to the stern
FOREPEAK - Used for storing cargo, a small section within the bow of the boat
FORWARD - Toward the front of the boat
FOULED - The encrusting of foreign matter or debris on the hull of a boat
GALLEY - The boats kitchen area
GANGWAY - The side of the boat used for the boarding of passengers
GEAR - Nautical equipment such as ropes, tackle, etc.
GROUND TACKLES - The anchor and its accessories
GUNWALE - The top of a boat's side
HATCH - Located in the deck, it is an opening that has a secure cover
HEAD - A nautical commode
HEADING - The direction that the bow of the boat is pointed in
HEADWAY - The progress the ship makes as it moves across the water
HELM - The wheel that steers the ship 
HELMSPERSON - The one who steers the boat
HOLD - A compartment used for storing cargo, located below the deck
HULL - The boat's main body
INBOARD - The inside of a boat
INTRACOASTAL WATERWAY - ICW: A body of water that is used for boats to travel upon
JETTY - A structure that extends or jets out from the shore
KEEL - The line of the boat that extends through the center; also a barge 
KNOT - A unit of speed that is understood to mean per hour (6080.27 feet)
LATITUDE - The distance north and south of the equator; latitude is measured in degrees
LEEWARD - The direction in which the wind blows
LEEWAY - The direction a boat drifts to leeward of the steered course
LINE - The rope or cords that are used on a boat
LOG - A record of nautical activities
LONGITUDE - Distance measured in degrees that determines east and west from the Prime Meridian
MIDSHIP - The middle of a ship; between the bow and stern
MOORING - Anchors or fastenings used to secure a boat 
NAUTICAL MILE - The unit used for measuring nautical navigation; one nautical mile equals 1,852 meters or 6,076 feet
NAVIGATION - The act of passing over water in ships or boats
NAVIGATION RULES - Steering and sailing rules that govern how boats and ships pass over water
OUTBOARD - The outside of the hull of a boat
OVERBOARD - The place located outside the side or edge of a boat
PIER - A wharf or structure that is used as a landing place 
PILE - A pole made of wood, stone, or metal used to support a pier. 
PILING - Used for driving piles; or a structure composed of piles
PILOTING - Coastal navigation that utilizes soundings and buoys
PORT - Place in the water that is used to provide shelter for boats
PRIVELEGED VESSEL - A vessel that has the right of way according to Navigation Rules 
QUARTER - The upper sides of a boat; between the stem and the mast
RODE - The line or rope attached to an anchor
RUDDER - Used for steering a boat; a hinged plate made of fiberglass, wood or metal that is mounted to the stern
RUNNING LIGHTS - Required lights that are displayed on a boat between sunrise and sunset
SATELLITE NAVIGATION - Navigation that uses satellite transmission via radio waves and equipment located on the boat
SCREW - The propeller on a boat
SCUPPERS - Holes in the side of a ship, used to allow water to drain.
SEAMANSHIP - The skill of navigating a boat or ship.
SEA ROOM - A location in sea where there is no obstructions; the space that is safe for navigating a boat or ship
SEAWORTHY - A boat that is deemed fit and safe for navigating or passing over water
SECURE - Tighten, or make fast
SET - To put forth in a specified direction
SLACK - To loose, not secure, or fast
SOUNDING - The measurement to determine the depth of water
SQUALL - A brief windstorm; usually comes on suddenly and is accompanied by either snow or rain
STARBOARD - It is the right side of a boat when one is facing forward
STEM - The part of the bow that extends the most forward
STERN - The part of a boat or ship that is in the rear
STERN LINE - A line or rope, used for docking that extends from the stern 
STOW - To arrange or place items where they belong
TILLER - A lever that is used for steering a boat's rudder 
WAKE - Waves, path, and the tracks left when a boat passes over water
WATERLINE - The line on the hull of a boat used to determine the depth a boat sinks
WAY - The movement of the boat as it passes over water: may be lee-way, head-way, or stern-way
WINDWARD - Of the side that is exposed to the wind

Copyright http://boating.actual-facts.com 2007

Finance your next boat at http://www.boatfinance.com/